Give to Learn: Meeting the People

Let me pause for a moment before I write about the last week and just talk about where I am right now. I am sitting in the most luxurious McDonalds I have ever seen. I'll have to post photos later. I never would have patronized a McDonalds in Guatemala except for the fact that SEVERAL locals have told us that they have the prettiest garden in the city. I have to say, it's true. There is an open patio area with outdoor furniture made from wood. The comfy seat cushions almost make you feel like you are at an upscale hotel....until you smell the frijoles and fried plantains. Symphony versions of American classic rock songs play overhead. A waitress just brought me a McCafe out in the courtyard and I am sitting by some women in typical dress (skirts banded with traditional fabrics) who are eating the Guatemalan version of fries. No wonder so many in this country have abandoned their traditional food for fast food (this city also has at least two Burger Kings and a Subway). I guess the US does export one thing...our eating habits. More on this topic in a different post.

This last week has been amazing for us. We've met so many local people and have learned so much more about the culture. We are now living with some local Guatemaltecos who live much closer to the city and hosted Aaron's parents when they were here three years ago for volunteer work. They have already enriched our experience immensely, conversing with us nightly about the people and culture and about our observations, and recommending things we should do, see or try. They truly are the quintessential exchange host mother and father. In addition to this change, we've gotten out a lot more in the last week (while still taking 4 hours a day of Spanish and working on endless homework). Below I have summarized some of our highlights.

San Antonio Aguas Calientes
Last Thursday, we took the "public bus" up into the mountains to San Antonio Aguas Calientes - an indigenous pueblo with a women's weaving cooperative that not only weaves beautiful fabrics, but tries to preserve their language and culture. After hearing a traditional greeting in Cakchiquel, an ancient Mayan language, we talked to one of the women there about how they produce their local textiles. Many fabrics sold on the streets of big cities here are from China, so it is very important to understand what goes into making the authentic textiles. This women told us that it takes 8 hours a day, working for two months to make the long textiled wraps that are common for carrying babies or protecting oneself from the rain during the winters here (it's summer here right now). She dressed us up in the traditional wears so we could see how each piece of fabric is used and told us about the traditional wedding ceremonies in their village. Once engaged, the women spends nearly a year before the wedding weaving towels and other clothes to present to her mother-in-law (suegra) as a gift. It was very dark in their workshop, so the settings for our photos was not as clear as I'd hoped...but I am still including some:

One of the women from the cooperative working on a shawl.

Aaron looking "muy guapo" in the traditional men's dress in Guatemala.

Note that while many women follow the traditional dress, men rarely do.

Me in traditional dress, right down to the "baby bundle"

(since most women in rural areas have many children...)

The extensive detail from the "brocaded" fabrics.

One of the women from the cooperative preparing a traditional lunch.

Around Town in Antigua
Now that we've been here for two weeks, it's beginning to feel more local in town to us. We often see the same people around the town and we have favorite spots to hang out and study. One of our favorites is the "Parque Central". We love to watch all of the vendedores (sales people) running from tourist to tourist to sell something. Women here sell weavings (only some of which are authentic) and jewelry. Older men sell wooden masks and machetes. Young boys (as young as 5 up to adolescents) sell shoe shine services and/or drugs (yes, it is VERY odd to be asked by an eight year old boy if you want to buy some pot...it's even odder and sadder to tell them you don't smoke and have them suggest that you try it). A quick tangent - for anyone following global news right now, apparently a large drug bust occurred just a few days ago in Copan, a city a few hours north of where we are now. Sad to think that even little kids are involved in the chain...

At any rate, while we were in the park one day last week, a local woman came up to ask us if we wanted to buy a scarf. We responded to her in Spanish and she complimented our accents and sat down to chat a bit. She was a young widow with two children to support on her own. She travels every day from her pueblo about an hour away into Antigua to try to sell textiles. She said that some days she sells something and somedays she does not, but she has to keep trying. She told us of the struggles her friends with more children have - trying to make ends meet on so little. She also talked quietly about the challenges the women face in such a male-dominated society. When we asked her what would make her life better, she said speaking English (which would help her sell even more). An NGO sponsored her for a week of English classes in another village. She learned and retained a great deal considering that Spanish is not even her first language (she speaks a Mayan dialect). She dreams of a better life for her kids and encourages them to study and learn English, stay in school, and not have kids too young.
It was such a unique opportunity to talk to her candidly about her life and her dreams. Here's my photo with her below, as well as some photos of the young kids who sell things throughout town (supposedly only during their school vacation...).

Our new friend from the central park.