Give to Learn: Antigua

Perhaps the highlight of our week was our visit to San Miguel Escobar (a local pueblo) with an NGO called ConstruCASA (http://www.construcasa.org/nuevo/index.php). ConstruCASA is similar to Habitat for Humanity, but focuses primarily on building homes for those in extreme poverty in Guatemala. They work with other local NGOs to identify families that would be a good fit to receive a house (e.g., own their land, are willing to work to pay off a quarter of the $3,000 house over time, and have kids who would benefit from improved living conditions). A member of the family is also required to help build the house with the ContruCASA team so they can understand what goes into the project.

We were able to visit a family that is about to receive a house, and two families that recently got their houses. What we saw was indescribable. Just fifteen to twenty minutes outside of Antigua (one of the most well off cities in Guatemala), people are living in houses made from bamboo rods and corrugated metal. The floors of the house are dirt and often several families share one housing "compound." We visited one owned by a grandmother who said the land has been passed down in her family for generations. She shares the land now with her two daughters who are married and her son, who is still single. She apologized to us because the house wasn't "cleaned up" (mind you, the floor is dirt - even I couldn't keep that clean!) However, she showed a toothless grin and invited us in.

Aaron walking into the grandmother's house, followed by a stream of kids.

Inside a traditional house.

The grandmother talking to Aaron about her chickens.

Her family has 11 kids all very close in age. The kids played in the open air "courtyard" by the outdoor kitchen, using a simple rope for a tug-a-war type game. They were covered in dirt and many were ill from the amount of dust in the air. However, they were all very happy and loved having visitors.

We walked about five steps up the hill to see the new ConstruCASA house that one of her daughters (with five children) received. The whole family used to sleep in one room together on a mattress on the dirt. Now they have two rooms (one for boys and one for girls, she informed us) with cement floors and they even have a shower. The shower is just a cold water spigot in a small cemented area big enough for one person, but the mother described how nice it is to shower alone and in private. The family also has a potable water tap now (foreigners would still have to filter it...). She was also proud to show us her cooking stove, which has proper ventilation to avoid CO2 poisoning that is common in this area when people cook over a fire in an enclosed area.

The view from the new house, looking over the "old" family compound.

One of the kids walking up to his new house with us.

Brothers playing at the clean water spigot.

Kids from the family that received the new house.

Aaron at the build-site of a new house next door.

Walking out of town, some of the kids followed behind us. However, they were quickly called back to help wash clothes and prepare dinner. What a difference a house can make in the happiness and dreams of a family. I think the most important part, however, is teaching the family how to use their new land and leverage their living situation to promote good health - from growing some of their own food, to proper hand washing before preparing meals. This is not something that ConstruCASA works on. We are anxious to observe some of the other charities that ConstruCASA works with to provide this immensely important education. After all, the house does not guarantee a healthy environment and to come out of poverty, the families and children have to be healthy enough to be able to work and go to school. Such a complex equation. We are slowly putting the pieces together and determining where and how we can make a difference with similar communities in Bolivia.

The kids in front of their local "tienda" watching us walk back to the bus.

A proud mother with her kids in front of her house.

Let me pause for a moment before I write about the last week and just talk about where I am right now. I am sitting in the most luxurious McDonalds I have ever seen. I'll have to post photos later. I never would have patronized a McDonalds in Guatemala except for the fact that SEVERAL locals have told us that they have the prettiest garden in the city. I have to say, it's true. There is an open patio area with outdoor furniture made from wood. The comfy seat cushions almost make you feel like you are at an upscale hotel....until you smell the frijoles and fried plantains. Symphony versions of American classic rock songs play overhead. A waitress just brought me a McCafe out in the courtyard and I am sitting by some women in typical dress (skirts banded with traditional fabrics) who are eating the Guatemalan version of fries. No wonder so many in this country have abandoned their traditional food for fast food (this city also has at least two Burger Kings and a Subway). I guess the US does export one thing...our eating habits. More on this topic in a different post.

This last week has been amazing for us. We've met so many local people and have learned so much more about the culture. We are now living with some local Guatemaltecos who live much closer to the city and hosted Aaron's parents when they were here three years ago for volunteer work. They have already enriched our experience immensely, conversing with us nightly about the people and culture and about our observations, and recommending things we should do, see or try. They truly are the quintessential exchange host mother and father. In addition to this change, we've gotten out a lot more in the last week (while still taking 4 hours a day of Spanish and working on endless homework). Below I have summarized some of our highlights.

San Antonio Aguas Calientes
Last Thursday, we took the "public bus" up into the mountains to San Antonio Aguas Calientes - an indigenous pueblo with a women's weaving cooperative that not only weaves beautiful fabrics, but tries to preserve their language and culture. After hearing a traditional greeting in Cakchiquel, an ancient Mayan language, we talked to one of the women there about how they produce their local textiles. Many fabrics sold on the streets of big cities here are from China, so it is very important to understand what goes into making the authentic textiles. This women told us that it takes 8 hours a day, working for two months to make the long textiled wraps that are common for carrying babies or protecting oneself from the rain during the winters here (it's summer here right now). She dressed us up in the traditional wears so we could see how each piece of fabric is used and told us about the traditional wedding ceremonies in their village. Once engaged, the women spends nearly a year before the wedding weaving towels and other clothes to present to her mother-in-law (suegra) as a gift. It was very dark in their workshop, so the settings for our photos was not as clear as I'd hoped...but I am still including some:

One of the women from the cooperative working on a shawl.

Aaron looking "muy guapo" in the traditional men's dress in Guatemala.

Note that while many women follow the traditional dress, men rarely do.

Me in traditional dress, right down to the "baby bundle"

(since most women in rural areas have many children...)

The extensive detail from the "brocaded" fabrics.

One of the women from the cooperative preparing a traditional lunch.

Around Town in Antigua
Now that we've been here for two weeks, it's beginning to feel more local in town to us. We often see the same people around the town and we have favorite spots to hang out and study. One of our favorites is the "Parque Central". We love to watch all of the vendedores (sales people) running from tourist to tourist to sell something. Women here sell weavings (only some of which are authentic) and jewelry. Older men sell wooden masks and machetes. Young boys (as young as 5 up to adolescents) sell shoe shine services and/or drugs (yes, it is VERY odd to be asked by an eight year old boy if you want to buy some pot...it's even odder and sadder to tell them you don't smoke and have them suggest that you try it). A quick tangent - for anyone following global news right now, apparently a large drug bust occurred just a few days ago in Copan, a city a few hours north of where we are now. Sad to think that even little kids are involved in the chain...

At any rate, while we were in the park one day last week, a local woman came up to ask us if we wanted to buy a scarf. We responded to her in Spanish and she complimented our accents and sat down to chat a bit. She was a young widow with two children to support on her own. She travels every day from her pueblo about an hour away into Antigua to try to sell textiles. She said that some days she sells something and somedays she does not, but she has to keep trying. She told us of the struggles her friends with more children have - trying to make ends meet on so little. She also talked quietly about the challenges the women face in such a male-dominated society. When we asked her what would make her life better, she said speaking English (which would help her sell even more). An NGO sponsored her for a week of English classes in another village. She learned and retained a great deal considering that Spanish is not even her first language (she speaks a Mayan dialect). She dreams of a better life for her kids and encourages them to study and learn English, stay in school, and not have kids too young.
It was such a unique opportunity to talk to her candidly about her life and her dreams. Here's my photo with her below, as well as some photos of the young kids who sell things throughout town (supposedly only during their school vacation...).

Our new friend from the central park.